2023 Reeve Vermentino Sonoma County 750 ml

Vinous’ Antonio Galloni once mused about being constantly asked about the best and most promising under-the-radar producers in California. His reply: “Reeve is certainly one of them.”

That was back in 2020. Today, that quality and promise is on full display in their boundlessly fresh 2023 Vermentino. 

We first had this wine at two-Michelin-starred Harbor House Inn. It was pure, refreshing bliss alongside our grilled halibut. Wine Enthusiast called it “summer in a glass” in their 93-point review, but it’s much more than a refreshing sipper—there’s plenty to ponder as well. With floral aromas and palate of lemon, white peach, spice, and herbs, a sip reveals immense purity and focus, while the wine’s coiled energy is unleashed in citrus bursts.

Wines of elegance and subtle complexity are de rigeur for Reeve founder Noah Dorrance and winemaker Katy Wilson, whose résumé includes Joseph Phelps, Flowers, and Kamen. They make excellent wines in small quantities, from a handful of thoughtfully farmed Northern California vineyards. And you can bet they’re unafraid to venture into uncommon varieties like Vermentino. 

This one comes from three sites: The rocky soils of their Dry Creek estate vineyard, the rolling hills of Pigasus Vineyard straddling the Bennett Valley AVA, and Las Brisas in Carneros—which Sonoma Magazine listed as one of the region’s most iconic vineyards. 

It’s no surprise that Vermentino thrives in the Golden State. The Italian variety loves the sun, and keeps its mouthwatering acidity even throughout warm, dry summers. Combine that with breezes off the Pacific, and you’ll reap some beautifully ripe and concentrated fruit. By blending sites from various elevations, soil types, and exposures, Reeve has showcased the variety’s exceptional depth, purity, and charm.